Controlling your Anger

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had a great time surfing this past week with Nanami-san. today, it was even greater to have her son Gavin come along for the ride.
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Nanami-san gets very excited very fast. so it’s my job to calm her down minute by minute and wave by wave. sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. hard to calm down when you’re flying down a wave like this. haha.
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Gavin is going to college in hawaii now. so he’s living the hawaiian lifestyle. the funny thing is i know Nanami-san was behind his move to hawaii because now it’s her excuse to come over. right Nanami-san? haha.
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good surfing super woman! i’ll probably see you soon again yeah? until then, keep calm.
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and i’ll probably be seeing Gavin a lot around hawaii. stoked you can enjoy the coolest college life in the world!
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ok, this is how you look forward. i say it over and over. in fact, probably 30 times a day. times that by 300 days i work in a year. that’s 9,000 times a year! so hey everybody “PLEASE LOOK FORWARD!”
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last, i passed by this book called “Controlling your anger before it controls you.” i thought to myself “Where was this book when I needed it most?” haha. thank goodness i finally learned how to control my anger. and that was only 4 years ago.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide