there’s been a lot of talk about the waves in palau. it seems not until recently that people finally figured out that there is a world class wave there. swim with the jellyfish in the lake and surf perfect tropical waves. i had a great time there and when i caught my first wave in palau this past march, i felt like it’s time for me to change my routine. instead of staying here in hawaii for the north shore season, i’m going around the world to chase waves and see what i’ve been missing for the past 30 years. i can’t wait! here is aunty jenny on one of the longest rights in palau. my dream is to go back and get a 10′ twenty second barrel at this very same spot in the morning. then in the afternoon, spear a big tuna.
maxim is the cutest 3 year old boy. we went fishing on my boat the other day and while he was eating his tuna sandwich, he fell backwards into my cooler. he got stuck in the freezing cold ice. i couldn’t stop laughing.
when i first met johnny boy gomes back in the 80’s, he was one of the heaviest locals at backdoor/pipe. probably the most feared surfer in the world. i seen it all and he wasn’t a guy you would want to even look at. and if you drop in on him? oh my gosh! luckily for me, johnny boy was always nice to me. i think being tony moniz’s brother in law helped a lot. haha. when ever he would be out in the water, i would sit right on the side of him because i knew that i was getting the next wave. that’s because nobody else would go near him. anyway, johnny boy is back! he told me that he’s been training and will be back on the north shore this season. he looks better than ever and when he paddles back to the lineup this year, i’m going to sit right next to him again. and if you little aggressive grom kids don’t know who this guy is, better watch out! pipeline master champion JBG is BACK!
