Hawaii: Dark, Dirty, and Fun!

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when we have dark rainy days like today, most people like to stay indoors in bed and watch a movie. i like to go outdoors because it’s days like this you can find some perfect conditions. and today, it was just that! surprise! we have a freak south swell!!!
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surfed with Oshima-san this morning. finally we rode some real waves! so stoked to see the stoke!
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long rides all morning long! perfect waves with only a few lucky guys out.
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perfect surfing Oshima-san. super stoked to see you surfing so good today! thank you for the laughs all morning long!
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another day of enjoying life and laughing out loud. LOL! tomorrow, same thing!
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the conditions don’t get any better than this! it’s like indonesia!
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then went to pick up Saori-san. the Osaka JR train driver! went for a dive, followed by a surf.
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rainy afternoon, but perfect for the underwater world. no rain down here!
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then went surfing. the waves got bigger this evening! super stoked to have a very fun day in the ocean! can’t wait for tomorrow! goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide