omg, another awesome day here in hawaii. started out with the dawn patrol session with Saori-san. it was such a colorful morning.
Saori-san paddled back out after this wave and asked me “how do you bottom turn?” i think she figured it out herself because this is a bottom turn!
omg, the sky was like art! clouds like this all morning long.
i told Saori-san, “you have to trust me, when i say go, you GO!” and she went on this overhead set!!! look how big the wave is!!! this girl was charging!
then she caught some lefts too. perfect surfing girl! get ready for tomorrow as we will try something new!
another perfect morning session. you just can’t ask for anything more.
then the happy lunch. if you hear the things we talk about, you would be laughing too. haha.
then i went to pick up the Oshima-san family. they were all ready for some big wave surfing! look at Oshima-san and Ojiro-kun padding out with so much determination. i love this photo because this is what you call “father and son bonding.” a dream for every father, and a dream for every son.
here is Super Saori-san. another very strong Saori-san. photos coming tomorrow. just way too many good ones to choose from.
i was craving shoyu chicken so i stopped by Foodland on the way home. grabbed a tray of chicken wings. then threw it in a pot.
made some special sauce with shoyu, mirin, sake, ginger, sugar, and garlic.
then i ate it all. it was delicious! juicy and tasty.
i’ll give you a sneak peak from the photos from the afternoon. look at this classic photo of 8 year old Ojiro-kun. he’s still a little kid but enjoying surfing more than anyone. as he was riding his first wave, he looked into the camera, smiled, and threw a peace sign. haha! when i saw this photo, i couldn’t stop laughing!!! this is by far the cutest photo i’ve ever taken! this is what you call, CONFIDENCE! hey peace child, you’re such a cutie!
