Taco Rice and No Trip?

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i had an amazing time with Chisato-san this morning! a very cool nurse from hokkaido that’s been surfing for 10 years. super impressed on how much she knew about surfing gear. and super impressed on her very long happy rides!
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it was cloudy, but better that way because it was empty! it’s like driving on a freeway with no cars and every single lane open!
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and at one point, it was only Chisato-san and myself in the whole ocean! thank you Mr. Rain for chasing all the hungry surfers away.
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then went to warm up with some nice hot pho. thank you Chisato-san for the wonderful time. keep on surfing!
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wow, amazing photo from the Pill Box in kailua yesterday. thank you for the photos Saori-san!
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glad you made it up there! hope you had a safe flight back to japan. see you in the water, or see you on the train!
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i’ve been craving mexican so tonight was mexican night.
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made myself a nice taco rice dinner. now i feel like taking a shot of tequila. haha. just joking.
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i was supposed to leave on a short trip today at 2pm. but after all the rain in the forecast, i cancelled it. not too bad begin stuck on this beautiful island even if it’s raining. i sure ain’t complaining.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide