Pipemaster Trials Day

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i was watching my nephews in the Pipeline Masters Trials today. the top 32 best local surfers in the world trying to qualify for 2 spots to get into the Pipe Masters. Seth Moniz made it to the quarter finals.
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Josh Moniz kept on going and going. making it all the way to the final 4. along the way, even taking out a former Pipeline Master.
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Josh ended up getting 3rd place in the final!!! omg, that is an incredible accomplishment today, BUT, missing it by one spot! i was happy, and yet sad. a day of mixed emotions. but hey Josh, i’m so proud of you! your day will come and i know that for a fact!
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ended up surfing this afternoon at Diamond Head. omg, the conditions were unbelievable! when we paddled out, there were only 7 guys out. we had every set to ourselves. then little by little, it got crowded and crowded. i counted 50 surfers in the water. 30 guys and 20 girls. i felt like i was in a night club or something!
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good to see Barry out there every day. you have to love this guy for taking care of diamond head for the surfers.
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then the sun started to set and the golden colors came alive!
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what an amazing day! so stoked to be surfing again!
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then watched the beautiful sunset.
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then saw the moon peaking out behind the cloud. watching the sun set to the west, and the moon rise to the east? are you kidding me?
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after i got home from our dive trip yesterday, i cleaned 2 fish, prepared it, and ate it.
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i love cilantro and green onions so i put a lot.
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i put so much that the fish disappears. but this is how i like it so that’s how i make it.
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i ate both big fish all by myself. it was the best dinner ever! thank you Mother Nature for providing me a very healthy meal. i promise i won’t let anything go to waste.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide