PADDLE AROUND AND DON’T PANIC!

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i try to teach everybody to paddle around when coming out, and not to panic. here is an example why.
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i was surfing yesterday and as i was coming down a wave, this long boarder was paddling straight out and just panicked. he threw his board and just froze! this is exactly what you DON’T want to do. this is why i teach everyone to paddle around. not straight out the middle.
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he kept on looking straight at me. i couldn’t believe he just stayed there? i teach everyone to move!
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then he didn’t dive down, he just put his head under water. i teach everyone to dive down head first so if you get hit, you won’t get hit on your head.
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luckily, i just pulled out right before i was going to run him over with my fins. that would mean going to the hospital and getting staples in your head. but if i were to panic too, i would have hit him in the head for sure. so everybody, PLEASE PADDLE AROUND WHEN YOU’RE COMING BACK OUT. AND PLEAE DON’T PANIC!
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want to thank Saori-san for the photos from last week. so happy on Mayuki.
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it was amazing watching the guys flying in the air. something i would never do.
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cool driving around enjoying the local lifestyle.
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and cool checking out spots off the beaten path.
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and cool free diving without fins. after watching the Ama-san in japan diving without fins, i can’t complain.
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thanks again boys for the great adventure. i’m sure none of you will forget this trip for the rest of your lives. especially Kylen and Cole for sleeping in water with buckets of rain pouring over your head. i’m sure you’re enjoying your warm bed now. haha.
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when i speared my first GT, there were no cameras. i would pay thousands of dollars if someone got that photo. so when i take the kids and their dreams come true, i want to capture that moment. a moment that is totally priceless.
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this is called an Opelu Kala. i love eating this fish. and for me, this was by far the biggest Opelu Kala i speared in my life. i didn’t even know they grew this big? Isaiah texted me and said “uncle, the fish over there are on steroids!” haha.
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just simply lying under a tree is so peaceful. i need times like this to slow my life down. i close my eyes for 5 minutes, take deep breaths, then get up and get back to my fast life. haha. gotta go!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide