it was Mai-chan’s last day in hawaii so before she boarded the airplane, we had our last session. paddled out at dark with some really challenging conditions.
just to make it out to the outside, you had to go through 50 waves. it was nonstop and pretty tiring. but Mai-chan never gave up.
then as it was time to go in, she caught the biggest and best wave of her life! it’s challenging days like this, hard work pays off. she was stoked! so was i!
awesome job this morning Mai-chan. sorry for making you cry 4 times in the past 5 days. these days of boot camp will make you a better surfer and a stronger person. you might hate me, but you will love your surfing even more. that’s all that matters.
i came home this morning and was freezing! so i made me a hot chocolate with whip cream. so warm and good!
to tell you the truth, i have no idea how i kept up with this energetic and spontaneous girl for the past 5 days. we pretty much did everything you can possibly think of. now i can rest my old body. haha.
but no time to rest as i went to pick up Asayama-san and Nao-san this afternoon. we went to the wild side of the island and had an amazing surf session. the waves were incredible!
then on the way home we stopped for a pizza and beer. celebrating the most wildest session in the most pure nature part of oahu.
then we ate, and now i’m home. started this morning at 6am and now just got home at 7:30pm. tomorrow’s another long day heading to the north shore. see you in my dreams.
