Asayama-san never got tubed before. so this is the closest so far. gosh, i love this photo!
and i also love this view! watching Asayama-san ride the longest wave of his life!
Nao-san is getting very good! just loving the vibe and wants to surf all day long.
the waves were perfect and nobody was out again. i was riding behind Nao-san yelling “yeah!!!” then she turned to look at me, and her board flew into my face right after.
seriously, i have a pretty dangerous job. i keep on telling everybody not to look at me but they do. and when they do, their board comes flying straight for my head. it’s pretty crazy at times!
having a peaceful morning session with these 2 wonderful people. they started off as strangers 3 days ago, but now they are surf buddies.
omg, the water was so clean yesterday! i told Asayama-san “just be very calm and relaxed. keep on taking deep breaths and go as deep as possible.” and he did just that. very relaxed and looking like a pro free diver.
then the turtles came to check us out. Asayama-san and Nao-san enjoying nature in the purest of hawaii.
i just love this photo. where else in the world would you want to be at this moment?
speared dinner and that’s it. life rolls on and i’m happy to be enjoying every precious moment. have a great day!
