Surf Selfie

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when i went back to the beach in the afternoon, i couldn’t believe how good the waves got! chest high waves and perfect off shore conditions. and guess what? nobody was out! we had it to ourselves! check out Nao-san on a big one!
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Asayama-san super relaxed and it was showing in his surfing. very good!
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after Nao-san caught her 30th wave, we were wondering when she would get tired. then she padded out and said “I’m tired.” haha.
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gosh, look how good the conditions were! for the first 2 hours we had it alone, then this lucky girl was the first of the many to paddle out.
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as for us, we had enough rides and smiles. it’s our 4th day together and i’m sure it will be hard so say goodbye. but no goodbyes yet as we have a new day tomorrow morning!
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Asayama-san and i caught the last wave in together. i thought it would be a good time for a selfie. haha. this is how you enjoy life in hawaii!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide