Legends Fall and Surfers Rise!

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omg, did you see the UFC fight last night? so sad to watch the legend Ronda Rousey get beaten up so fast and so bad.
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it’s not that she’s getting worst, it’s that everybody else is getting better.
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after Ronda’s previous loss to Holm, she said she considered suicide. and being that this loss is 5x more embarrassing, i’m sure a lot of her loved ones are worried. the champion Amanda Nunes got paid $200,000 for this fight, Ronda got paid $3,000,000. i don’t know how anyone can be so sad after winning all that money.
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spent the last day of 2016 with the Kaneko-san family. we started off this morning at Haleiwa. the waves were perfect for all of us! so lucky!
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then we went for some hulihuli chicken! if i go to the north shore on the weekend, i eat here for sure.
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this time, we ate at the bus stop. haha. thank you Kaneko-san, Masaru-san, Ray-kun, Hiyo-kun, and Manami-chan. i had a great time with you guys!
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omg, this is the best chicken plate in the world!
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then we went to the bakery to get snow puffs. Ray-kun learning how to speak english so he ordered by himself.
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then Hiyo-kun learning how to speak english too. this is the same way i learned how to speak japanese. just go for it!
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then we went to surf laniakea after. the waves were 3x bigger than haleiwa. so stoked to see Ray-kun catch the wave of the day!
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then after all the nerves, sleeping on the way home is the best feeling in the world.
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as for me, driving home after work on the last day of 2016 made me feel so content. i was looking at the rainbow and saying to myself “life is so good! can’t wait for 2017!”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide