got home early morning from last night, slept only a couple hours, but still managed to wake up at 6am. jumped back in the truck and headed to the beach. i knew it was going to be a super good first day of the year!
paddled out before the sun rose. so nice to see the purple sky!
then rode my first wave of 2017! this is the way i want so spend the rest of this year, and rest of my life. surfing!
so stoked to see my first barrel of the year too!
i’ve never ever dawn patrolled this spot before. but even thought, these locals are my friends. the reason i went out here is because i want to try different things this year. surf different spots, meet different people, and have different experiences.
then came home and enjoyed my new years tradition of eating delicious japanese food!
i had 68 messages when i woke up this morning. want to thank my friends from around the world for the happy new year wishes. i wish you the best of 2017. surf your dream! this photo was from Nao-san. looks so good!
and thank you Kimura-san for sending me this photo. i’m sure you didn’t take this right? haha.
this is Yamari style!
my friend Wendell is in japan now. nice first sunrise dude!
so jealous you got to see this. i wish i was there.
awesome christmas cake made by Yumi-chan and her beautiful niece.
many more photos coming. but for now, i have to sleep because tomorrow i’m surfing all day! good night!
