good evening. gosh, today was such a beautiful day again. i got up early and headed down to queen’s with kelia. my sister told me she’s been ripping so i wanted to see it for myself. we only stayed out for an hour but i could tell by the few waves she caught, her confidence level is up. she’s going with the flow of the ocean and her surfing got a lot better from the last time i seen her…
kelia has been doing this new trick recently. the first time i seen it, i freaked out. how the heck? she would stand on the nose hanging five with only one foot. i got the sick shot today but you won’t be able to see it for a while. it’s one of those shots that will make some magazine for sure so i want to save it. kind of like the dane kealoha photo. it’s amazing how much kelia matured in her surfing and she’s only going to get better and better. i’m stoked to be able to document her progress….
here are some more shots from this morning. i’ve been learning some new things about my camera. things i learned off the internet. i figured out so many mistakes i was making. mistakes like using a cheap shitty filter on my freakin expensive lens. kind of defeats the purpose. i took that piece of crap off and the photos are so much sharper now. gosh, why didn’t anybody tell me that earlier???
there were even some barrels out there this morning….
this japanese girl was ripping today. sorry i forgot your name…. gomenasai….
i went to drop off kelia after we surfed. kalua was so happy to see her back home. oink oink….
**after driving to every single computer store in hawaii to find a hard drive, i finally found one at UH bookstore. hope it works… then i jumped in at kewalo’s for a surf. the waves were 3′ and so good. the rights were barreling.. i took off on my first wave, pulled into the barrel, then while i was looking out the hole, i seen some asshole dropping in. oh my gosh!!! i had to bail. i was pissed. i took 2 deep yoga breaths and went in. i thought to myself, i won’t be able to catch my flight to japan on monday from jail. come on guys, stop dropping in. that’s something i would never ever do… haha. paybacks a bitch….
