woke up this morning to 18 degrees! omg, so cold!
went to check bowls, too crowded and looked weak. then went to check diamond head. 50 guys out and inconsistent. i tell Koguma-san “hey, let’s go check out my secret spot.”
we arrive at my secret spot i’ve been surfing for the past 36 years of my life. so i guess you can say i’m local here. and if you’re not local, you’re not invited. but if you’re my friend, you’re welcomed anytime. “No Kooks means No Kooks.”
to get to this secret spot, you have to hike through snake infested trails like this for 45 minutes. Koguma-san kept on asking if they’re snakes. haha.
then you jump off the mountain, paddle out 50 minutes through shark infested waters, and you’re there. it was total perfection! only had 2 other surfers out and Koguma-san couldn’t believe it. here is one of his first waves of 2017!
we took turns catching wave after wave. ended up surfing for over 2 hours and caught over 25 waves each. we ended our session with the spot all to ourselves.
i’ve gotten hundreds of barrels here throughout my life. if you make it, you will be stoked. if you don’t, you will hit the reef. i took my nephew Joshua Moniz here when he was 10 years old and he almost drowned.
awesome surfing Koguma-san. i have much more photos but can’t show it because people might find out where it is. i’ll send it to you via private email.
no shower there so had to jump in the car, drive back out of the mountains, and borrow water from the street.
then went to pick up the family and ate at another one of my secret spots. everybody i take here loves this place.
then went to board Mayuki and did some fishing, snorkeling, whale watching, and had lots of fun! thank you Koguma-san, Akiko-san, Daigo-kun, and Rena-chan for the wonderful ocean day!
then drove home to yet another beautiful rainbow. i love going home to this!
then watched the lamb being prepared for the oven.
took a shower, came out, and it was done.
nice juicy lamb for dinner. the end to the perfect long day! it’s 7:30pm and i’m going to sleep. goodnight.
