Hawaiian Dangers: Be Aware!

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japan is very safe so it’s ok to leave your door unlocked, and leave your valuables like this displayed in your car. BUT, in hawaii, this is not a great idea. you have a bag, sunglasses, and an iPhone that can be stolen in 10 seconds. all it takes is a rock through the glass, and everything will be gone.
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i explained it to Ray-kun when we were at diamond head. then when we went to sandy beach, he did the same thing. i guess it’s hard to break a habit from trust to not trusting people. luckily nobody threw a rock through my window.
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an iPhone to a burglar is like fast cash. many of my friends stuff get stolen like this, and i don’t want it to happen to anyone else. so if you come surf with me, please hide your valuables. thank you.
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this is my next goal to do when i’m surfing a wave. i know it will be super hard and dangerous, but i’m going to do it anyway.
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semi-panorama: the beautiful tantalus!
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the carissa moore bowl at Banan with Yusuke-san and Kano-chan.
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diamond head with Aoi.
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now that President Obama left, Kailua is back to normal. i’m going to drive Mayuki around to this side of the island someday and spend a week in the emerald ocean. surf, dive, eat, drink, and sleep. a different kind of vacation!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide