omg, today felt like summer! totally warm, sunny, beautiful, no wind, and a solid south swell! waves where overhead and perfect all day long!!! i was so stoked to spend this full day in the ocean with such a beautiful family.
Hosokawa-san has been surfing for a while now. the times we surfed together in hawaii, the waves were pretty small. so today was by far the biggest hawaiian surf for him. so stoked to see him surfing some powerful waves finally!
his first wave was huge! here he is taking the drop. perfect timing off the top.
then Hosokawa-san set the rail and turned right. he rode it in the best place possible. amazing!
then on a few times as he paddled out, the big freak sets came and broke right on his head. four waves in a row and he survived. haha!
great surfing Hosokawa-san! big smiles!
then i took the kids to Waiola Shave Ice. they love it here!
then we went to eat pho because the Hosokawa-san family loves pho very much.
then we went to eat poke. i couldn’t believe how much food fit into our stomachs today! i was totally full!
the reason i took them to eat some good poke is because they only had poke from ABC Store before. haha. that was so funny when i heard that. even the guys at this shop were laughing. it’s like going to japan and eating sushi at 7/11. now the Hosokawa-san family knows what real poke tastes like. and they love it.
then we all went back to the beach and surfed again. this is 10 year old Hinari-chan’s first wave of her life. she was so stoked!
came home and ate lobsters. super tired and should be sleeping by 8:30pm. waking up early and surfing this rare south swell again all day long! good night.
