had an awesome time surfing this morning with Shiramizu-san. no wind, glassy conditions, and super solid head high south swell.
Shiramizu-san hasn’t surfed in 10 years! so being in the water today surfing the rare south swell must have felt amazing.
look how big this wave was. there were some sets like this where you had to duck dive pretty deep. i thought i was on the north shore or something! super powerful south swell.
stoked to be surfing a shortboard! it’s been a while so hitting the lip felt pretty good!
shaka and smile on the way in.
then we went to eat hamburgers because it was Miharu-chan’s request. thank you Shiramizu-san, Hiromi-san, and Miharu-chan for the wonderful day! please enjoy the rest of your hawaiian vacation!
did you know it costs $233,610 to raise a child from birth to age 17 in america? add 30% cost of living expenses in hawaii and the total to raise a child in hawaii will cost you over $300,000. that’s 35,532,081 japanese yen. omg!