$73 BILLION DOLLAR MAN!

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with the light winds creating a lot of haze in the sky, you will see the most amazing sunsets. just like this one from last night. and many more to come this week.
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woke up, drove to work watching the full moon. stuck in heavy traffic but who cares? i drive in peace now days and when people honk their horns or stick the middle finger to me, i just laugh. it’s not worth having my day ruined by an aggressive driver. no way i’ll let that happen anymore! i say “anymore” because it use to happen almost everyday until a few years ago. haha.
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my friends wanted to surf at a secret spot today so i said “i know just were to go!” jumped on Mayuki and had the most epic session with nobody out. lots of waves, lots of smiles, and lots of ripping. score!
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then we went for an afternoon session. passed by bowls and seen 30 surfers out. so went to surf another spot not too far away. only 3 guys and much better waves.
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i couldn’t believe how good the waves were. we all caught some long rights and when my apple watch beeped and told me “you’ve over exceeded your exercise for the whole week, i called it a day.”
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check out Warren Buffet’s net worth. from $5,000 at age 14 to $73,000,000,000 today. this guy is my hero! his first job was at 11 years old delivering newspapers. that was my first job too at age 11. what the heck happened to me? haha.
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january 30th on HBO, there will be a documentary on Warren Buffet’s life. it’s called “Becoming Warren Buffet.” i will watch that for sure! then maybe i can be a billionaire someday too. too late? it’s never too late!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide