My New Apple

287


what’s going on with my life?
1. been surfing so much that my eyes are burning, my back is sunburned, and my knowledge for the ocean is getting better and better. when people ask me how to get better in surfing, i tell them “the more time you put into the water, the better you will get.” once you learn how the ocean works, your surfing will flow better, and so will your life.
2. what surfboard have i been riding? everything! i’ve been riding and trying so many different boards recently. i’m experimenting and trying to find the best combination for my surfing in every size and condition. i have boards from 10 years ago that i’ve been using. riding something different is keeping me so crazy about surfing!
3. time is money right? so after 5 long years with my computer, and after the past 4 months of stress waiting for things to upload, and programs crashing right in the middle of a project, i went to get a new computer. i’m using it now and guess what? instead of being on it for 2 hours this morning, i got the same tasks done in 45 minutes. now i have 1.25 hours more for surfing today!!! yeah!! for me, if i could buy more minutes in a day, i would be first in line.
keep on smiling!
keep on surfing!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide