Chicken Rice Secret Lunch

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the waves were pretty big so getting out was super hard. Akane-san had to go over 30 waves before she made it to the outside. but once she caught her first wave, it was all worth the effort!
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then she caught more and more.
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such a super happy girl when she’s surfing!
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Akane-san teaches me about japanese temples and travel destinations. i teach her about surfing and how to keep calm. and when everything goes well, everything goes well.
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we were trying to decide where to eat. then i thought about my secret restaurant in china town. very cheap and very delicious.
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and since i want to try different things in 2017, i’ve been trying different things in 2017. this is the best chicken over rice dish i’ve eaten in my whole life in this whole wide world. so amazing! thank you Akane-san for the wonderful time. see you again today!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide