Paying Respects….

249

good morning. going island hopping.. hope my phone catches because i’m going to show you what paradise of paradise is. so far down south that a lot of japanese don’t even know it’s part of japan. you can pretty much swim to taiwan. been there, done it. but it’s time to show it… stay tuned… oh and i fell behind on my email again. opened it yesterday and seen 178 in my inbox. i screamed and shut down my computer. sorry but just have to wait till this dream trip is over…. gomenasai…

the other day, i went to saitama to pay my respects to a father of a good friend of mine. i’m not good at going to funerals at all. funerals are sad. i don’t know what it is but something hits me deep inside. millions of things race through my mind. and after it’s all done, my body and mind are exhausted. with life, comes death. i know that someday my own dream life will come to an end and i accept that. but what’s going to happen after i’m gone? my family? my friends? my funeral? my surfboards? my boat? don’t laugh because i think about all that stuff. i’m going on a boat trip next month and will have a lot of time to think about things. i’m going to make a will and a list of things that i want certain people to have if and when i go. death is a touchy subject and i don’t like to talk about it. but i just can’t help it now. so all i have to say is, appreciate your precious life and live out your dreams. enjoy and cherish every single day as it was going to be your last. that’s pretty much what i’ve been doing for the last 10 years so when it’s my time, don’t feel sorry for me. be happy for me…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide