Cold White Mountain to Warm Blue Ocean

271

IMG_9359

left our place in Susukino yesterday morning. took a walk to the station slipping all over the streets.
IMG_9362

full on snow build up on the streets of Sapporo. i felt like i was walking in a freezer.
IMG_9364

pulling my suitcase in the snow, and walking in my wet sneakers. my sneakers and socks were wet on the whole trip!
IMG_9366

got the subway to Sapporo. i should have caught the taxi.
IMG_9367

yes, i should have caught the taxi. but i ended up saving $4. was it worth it? nope!
IMG_9369

had to warm up so ate a shio based hot ramen.
IMG_9370

jumped on the 2.5 hour flight from Sapporo to Fukuoka. a normal $400 flight but only $94 for me because i’m a foreigner. lucky!
IMG_9371

arrived in Fukuoka and transferred airplanes. i wish i could have stayed a night there.
IMG_9374

but once i got on the flight, i was happy to be heading home. closed my eyes and slept for 6 hours straight.
IMG_9377

opened my eyes and watched the sunrise.
IMG_9379

i always check the wind report in hawaii so i know which way the airline will fly into the airport. then i choose a seat on the side of the airplane where i can check out the waves. i seen the big west swells wrapping around the island so i knew where the best waves would be.
IMG_9381

gosh, look how many houses they built in ewa beach!!! this is crazy! i remember when there was nothing before.
IMG_9383

came home and jumped on the yamaha. headed straight to the ocean. i wanted to be in the free wind so chose the bike over the truck.
IMG_9385

more free wind in the ocean by Mayuki. i had a running nose for 6 days in japan because it was freaking cold! once i jumped into the ocean, it was gone in a second.
IMG_9389

and omg, the water was warm and crystal clean!
IMG_9392

i pulled up to my secret spot and surfed with nobody around! the waves were super perfect and i even got barreled! i couldn’t believe nobody was out on this beautiful sunday? guess i’m lucky again!

feels great to be back home to the blue ocean. the white mountain was amazing, but just way to cold for a local boy from hawaii. i missed my life with shorts and slippers. good night

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide