had a great time surfing with Hikaru-san this morning. perfect waves and perfect surfing! welcome back to paradise!
and i feel welcomed back to paradise too! it feels so good coming back to the ocean. now i know exactly why so many people around the world run away from the winter cold and come to hawaii. i would too.
this morning, i didn’t help Hikaru-san at all. she caught every wave and surfed it on her own. super proud of her!
see you again surfer girl!
i can’t believe how blue everything is??? after i got home, i was ready to take a nap. then i get a call from Makisan “hey kirby, i’m at sandy beach now and it’s going off! come!!!” i got up, jumped in the truck, and sped to sandy beach. omg, she was right! it was going off! had an awesome session!
paddled out and took this shot of a little inside wave. there some solid 6-10′ sets in the morning. my lifeguard friend told me “brah, it’s going off!”
one of my japanese friends was wearing this interesting dress. when we were eating lunch, i kept on looking and trying to read the english written on her chest. then when i looked closer, i thought “wow!”
“SHUT UP. I WEAR BIGGER HEELS THAN YOUR DICK.” omg, that is so funny! i’ve seen strange english in japan before, but this was the strangest ever. haha.
