supposed to be the most windy day today but not where we surfed. paddled out with Namikoshi-san and Tokukura-san to some epic glassy morning conditions.
so stoked to surf with Namikoshi-san again. super cool black belt karate surfer from tokyo. small hole in his left knee from the reef, but nothing hurts when you’re surfing.
Tokukura-san just started surfing 6 years ago when he was 50 years old. he told me now he has a much better life, and a much healthier body. i’m so happy for him.
i just love photos like this. Namikoshi-san on the take off of a 30 second ride. maybe he’ll get a 40 second ride tomorrow.
Tokukura-san caught so many waves today. it’s his first time to hawaii and he’s loving every moment.
the whole island was super windy but for some reason, the winds stopped for the 3 hours we were out. so lucky!
had a great time sharing waves with the boys. there were only 2 other surfers out. couldn’t believe it!!!
then took the boys to eat poke for the first time. they didn’t even know what poke was until now. haha. we all loved it and will surf and eat tomorrow again. hope you guys are sleeping good!
