another amazing morning with absolutely perfect waves! Namikoshi-san almost passed on surfing today because of the hole in his knee. i told him “once you get into the water, you will forget about it, so let’s go!” and yes, he forgot about it. haha.
Tokukura-san kept catching wave after wave. just perfect waves selection and surfing.
great surfing Namikoshi-san! hope your knee heals fast and remember the great rides we had these past 2 days!
great surfing Tokukura-san! keep on surfing and keep on being the super calm man you are!
warmed up with some hot pho. glad the boys liked it! then i dropped them off and went for an afternoon session with Inoue-san. good waves all day!
then came home and watched the contest LIVE! so stoked to see Joshua Moniz dominate with the highest combined score of the day! and almost getting a perfect 10 point ride! beat Kanoa who just got 2nd in the Pipe Masters. good job Josh!
and in his interview, i was so proud of him being so confident and wanting to win the contest. then the commentator asked him if he had anything to say, here was his answer: “want to say hi to mom, hi dad, and hi to my brother and sisters.” brother and sisters??? he meant brothers and sister. haha! almost perfect Josh!
was thinking about taking a trip somewhere this weekend. came across this photo of Joshua with the big kumu. hopefully the winds back down so i can cross one of the most deadliest channels. we shall see.
the news showed this little korean tourist boy begin swept off the beach and out to sea by a big wave on the north shore. a few seconds later, 3 good samaritans jumped into action.
these 2 guys and girl saved this kids life, and probably the parents lives too. if they weren’t there, the whole family could have died. now the korean family wants to thank these guys and girl so if you know who they are, call Guy Hagi.
