if you want to meet one of the most happiest surfers in the world, meet Dr. Hara-san. i really like surfing with him because he just surfs, smiles, and enjoys each ride by ride.
and the waves were supposed to be flat today? i saw a guy in the parking lot and he told me he wasn’t going to surf because the waves were too small. he went home, we went surfing. i felt sorry for him. haha.
once again, one of the most happiest surfer in the world.
Dr. Hara-san caught a full years worth of waves. i’d say he rode a total distance of 3 kilometers. and paddled for about 4. perfect rides!
nice to see Angela out there too. another one of the most happiest surfers in the world.
then went to pick up Dr. Hara-san’s beautiful family for lunch. so happy to see everybody enjoying the hot pho! can you believe i ate vietnam food for the past 4 days in a row? i love it!
Mili-chan and Kai-chan enjoying the cool shave ice. two beautiful happy girls!
when you hang out with Dr. Hara-san, you get his positive energy to smile. and it makes everyone smile too. gosh, i would love if he was my own doctor because mine don’t smile at all. haha. thank you guy and girls for the lovely morning!
then went to take a nap in Mayuki before my marathon afternoon session with the newlyweds Mr. and Mrs. Yamaguchi-san. great nap, and greater surfing after the nap. scored another perfect day in paradise again!
i have the next 3 days off so i’ll be pretty much everywhere doing everything. haha. i spent 6 hours in the water today and i wouldn’t be surprised if i spend more than that tomorrow. we shall see…
