yesterday was my day off but the night before a friend called and wanted me to take her surfing. so i did. and it was such an amazing morning session as i watched her walk the longboard for her very first time! glad i didn’t miss it.
then went to meet my amasan diver crew. how they learn is by experience. i take them out, throw them in the ocean, and they learn by trying. glad to see them getting better and better on each dive.
then we started watching the WQS contest in australia on Reid’s iPhone because he had the big one. Seth’s heat was coming up so we had a few drinks and some amazing food. better than any bar you could imagine.
Seth once again advanced! omg, i was so excited for this kid! he’s moved on to round 5. it’s now man on man with the big guns of surfing. he’s the lowest ranked surfer and has absolutely nothing to lose. my dream is for him to win this event!
then watched one of the most amazing sunsets. everybody in total awe.
came in at night listening to some hawaiian music watching the beautiful honolulu city lights.
came home and read the surfing headlines for today. it read “Champion Tour Stars Dominate Day 5 at Surfest Newcastle. the only thing is they forgot about the young kid Seth is not a WCT star yet. and yes, i said yet.
CLICK HERE TO WATCH THE WQS 6000 EVENT LIVE!
