still can’t believe how good the waves were at Laniakea. absolutely perfect direction and conditions. score!
Kunitake-san is a very energetic surfer. he’s traveled to Mentawai, Mexico, and other spots around the world. so before we paddled out, i told him “all those places you surfed are different than Hawaii. Hawaii has way more power so be ready!” and once he felt the power of the ocean, he said “omg, so much power!” haha.
we were surfing on the side all to ourselves. just staying away from everybody and enjoying wave after wave. look how perfect this wave is!
had some barrels too. i was riding behind yelling “pull in!”
seen this turtle cruising right by me all morning. he kept on coming up to take a breath. seemed like he was trying to say something.
then when i came home and downloaded this photo, i realized he didn’t have an arm??? omg, guess what bit it off? yes, Jaws!
after we came in, Kunitake-san took photos of his first Hawaiian North Shore experience. a great one indeed!
then we came back to town and looked at Diamond Head. no thank you, forget it.
