A Day in My Life

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waves were super junky and raining this morning so we were trying to decide where to surf. since Rikiya-san comes to hawaii so often, he said “no need surf today, i want to do what you would do on a rainy day.” i said “really?” he said “yes, what do you do on a day like this?” i said “ok, let’s go!”
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first stop was at the Honolulu Police Station. it’s a huge process to own a gun here in hawaii. the laws are strictly written so guns don’t fall into the wrong hands. you have to get a permit, you’re background will be checked throughly, your mental status, and your history as an american citizen. i think this is a first time a Japanese national set foot in this office because it’s illegal for Japanese to own a gun in Hawaii. locals only.
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then we went to the gun store to look around. i’m still learning so much about safety, equipment, and hunting. it’s very interesting.
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also learning about ammo. each bullet is different and serves a different purpose. kind of like the same for surfboards.
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then went local shopping at Longs Drugs. always supporting local!
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then went to the firing range. Rikita-san was super excited to shoot a brand new 9mm Glock 19 handgun. so was i!
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target was 15 yards or 13 meters away. pretty far, but if you keep calm, you can hit it.
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and we sure hit the target a lot. Rikiya-san got all 3 shots in the red. an amazing shooter! guns are taboo in japan. not much talked about and totally illegal to own one. in america, so many people own guns. some use it for self defense, and some use it for hunting. it’s just part of the american culture and since this is america, it’s ok. just have to be extremely safe as that’s my top priority.
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washed off the gun powder and went to eat some chicken pumpkin curry. so good! and watching the WQS contest live from Australia during lunch.
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watched Joshua losing with 20 seconds to go in the heat. then he caught the last wave and got the score to win the heat! beat 2 more WCT top surfers! good job Josh!
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tomorrow’s heats are going to be crazy! don’t miss heat 7 and 8! thank you Rikiya-san for spending an amazing day with me. nothing planned as usual, just going with the flow. and the flow was awesome! see you tomorrow morning!
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came home and took a nap. woke up at 5:30pm feeling full from lunch, and dirty from shooting. jumped in the truck, drove 10 minutes, and surfed a secret spot until dark. challenging head high waves, nobody out, and just enjoying washing off my body with off the lips and cutbacks. pure stoke!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide