went to check everywhere in town this morning and the waves were terrible! too stormy and dirty water. so Rikita-san wanted to gamble and head to the east side. i’m not a gambler, but i knew the odds were in our favor!
we arrived at one of the most beautiful surf points in the world. nobody was out as perfect waves kept peeling across. the only thing is getting out. you have to time it perfectly or you will end up crashing your board or body on the rocks. or worst, both. Rikiya-san made it out safely, but got scratched up on the way in. just part of surfing.
i surfed this spot only on special occasions like today. a couple times in the past 10 years to be exact. this place hardly gets good but today was super special because it was good and nobody else was out. it was just Rikita-san and i taking turns catching wave after wave.
and omg, the water was so clean!
i could tell Rikita-san was a little nervous in the beginning. i would have been too. but after getting a few good waves, he was super comfortable and super stoked.
the water doesn’t get any cleaner than this. totally opposite from the rest of the island because of all the rain.
after i caught my first wave, i was super happy to be surfing in the most beautiful nature spot in hawaii!
when i see the opportunity to get a photo like this, i seize it.
had some pretty crazy barrels breaking over the shallow reef. actually kind of dangerous.
when i dropped of Rikita-san at his hotel, i told him “do you want to know what the name of that surf spot was?” he said “yes.” that spot is called “SUICIDES!” then the bell boy came out and said “omg, you took him to SUICIDES??? really???” he couldn’t believe it. haha. thank you Rikita-san for the wonderful week of surfing and hanging out. you did great today. i have so much confidence in you so just remember to “Keep Calm and Go Naminori.”
ate a pastrami sandwich on the way back to town. smiling and laughing all the way.
then went to pick up Kunitake-san for day 2. we checked Diamond Head and it must have cleaned up 10 minutes before we arrived because there were only 6 surfers out??? really? score again! double scoring day!
