been watching a few heats for the contest going on right now in Australia. super stoked on John John’s surfing and interviews. awesome World Champion role model for the kids. a true champion.
yesterday evening, the waves came up! had some really nice waves for Kawamoto-san. he wanted to get better in surfing and he just did that! by the end of our 3 hour session, he was surfing perfectly.
nobody knew the waves were this good because nobody was out. we were so lucky!
i let too many empty waves go by so i thought i’d take this one. felt so good!
super bright afternoon sun! thank you Kawamoto-san for the wonderful time. please remember the 3 tips you learned and apply it in Japan. your surfing life will be much better from now.
i think summer came early this year. it’s so dam warm! the sun is hot, the winds are cool, and the sunrises and sunsets are unbelievable. so stoked to be in Hawaii right now!
