Living in Hawaii: 24H of Happiness!

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i woke up this morning thinking “omg, i gotta slow down.”

for any kids first surfing experience, they’re either going to love it, or hate it. it all depends on that experience so it better be good. when i was paddling into Eikou-kun’s first wave of his life, i made sure it was going to be good.

and once the kid stood up, i knew he was going to love it! he wasn’t scared at all. he was just freaking out with the biggest smile on his face.

and wave after wave, he kept on telling me “one more! one more!” then at the end of each wave, i fell off the board on purpose just so he can laugh at me.

and boy was he laughing! he was laughing so much and at the end of the day, he called me “hetakuso” which means, “kook.” haha. you can call me what ever you want if i can get you to laugh like this.

took Mommy out for a couple waves too. it was her dream to surf and now that dream came true. great job Sato-san!

Eikou-kun started feeling pretty comfortable in the ocean. i guarantee you this kids full on hooked! he’s probably dreaming about surfing right now. haha.

i fell off again on purpose just so i can get him to laugh and feel so happy in mother nature.

he was laughing so hard that tears were coming out of his eyes. haha. when people ask me how i can be in the ocean for so long every day? this is the reason why. this is the ultimate reward!

last night was freaking crazy! we had dinner, then i looked out to the sky and knew it was the perfect night for a cruise. so we jumped on Mayuki and she took us to the best star gazing spot in the world. stars twinkling everywhere! it was incredible! well, incredible until the police almost ran over Mayuki.

then after all the drama, it was picture time with the Etsuko-san family.

then with sisters Masae-san and Chizu-chan. whoever took this photo must have had too many shots of Don Julio? haha.

as we ate dinner, we were talking about how each and every one of us met. such an incredible story of how people come together. if it wasn’t for “We Are One,” this night would be none.

last night, Masae-san was telling me how she tried to surf for 4 times and couldn’t stand up yet. the stars finally aligned and today was that special day.

not only did she stand up on her first wave, she surfed right along with her younger sister. and now she knows why Chizu-san is so freaking happy living in Hawaii. more awesome photos coming later.

then took the girls out this afternoon for some spring break fun! today was the most perfect day of the year! i say this everyday and i mean it! life only gets better and better!

anyway, after seeing all these photos from less than 24 hours of my day, i thought to myself “no, don’t slow down. keep on going!” haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide