wow, i just came home from an amazing afternoon surf with Motoko-san and Seira-chan. two wonderful ladies from Tokushima on the beautiful island of Shikoku.
Seira-chan is only 17 years old and has a dream of going to school in Hawaii. when that happens, i’m sure you’ll see her smiling like this every single day in the water.
i was so happy to surf along the side of Seira-chan watching her long perfect rides!
Motoko-san has to be so proud of her daughter. a surfer herself, now she gets the treat of watching her daughter enjoy the rides she did 20 years ago.
normal surfers get super rusty after not surfing for 20 years, but Motoko-san took off right where she left. awesome surfing!
Siera-chan came off the airplane this morning on her first trip to Hawaii. a few hours later, she was surfing in paradise. that’s they perfect way to start a vacation!
this is the part i love the most. watching the smiles come out after the ride. a true surfers feeling.
thank you ladies! see you again tomorrow afternoon!
surfing with my friend Carter Lee during sunset time was awesome. made me remember the old school days as kids when we use to do this at Portock all the time. i’d ride my bicycle to his house, we’d run to the beach, surf till dark, run back to his house, Mrs. Lee would have a hot meal waiting for us, and we’d do that every day after school. that was 35 years ago. now, we have our own cars, we take a boat out, we have a couple beers, and we pay for our own meals. how times have changed. Only Good Times.
