this is not a garbage dump, this is a river in the Philippines. i’ve seen it before and the smell is pretty nasty.
this is a good wave in Indonesia. secret spot as you can see nobody is out.
this is another good wave in Indonesia. not a secret spot as Mike Woo hits the lip.
back to the secret spot. it’s so perfect that i can really put my weight into a bottom turn.
and everything else after the bottom turn falls into place.
Kimura-san with the nice cutback. nice spray too!
this is why there are no fish in the ocean anymore. these nets with small eyes catch everything that swims by.
a happy day with the lovely Mayuki. just the thought of Mayuki makes me happy.
want to thank Saito-san for the email. i had so much fun surfing with Hayato-kun! i remember he telling me he wanted to be an astronaut when he grew up. but now he wants to become a surfer? haha. sorry about that! next time i take him surfing, i’ll tell him to focus and become an astronaut, then he can surf in space! that will be awesome!
omg, Duran Duran is coming to Hawaii this summer! i’m there for sure!
one of my all time 80’s song: The Wild Boys!
