had a fun day surfing with Megumi-chan. we paddled out to Bowls this morning and got to surf it with just 3 other guys. great timing!
then it got crowded so we paddled over to the side and caught so many good waves. i was very impressed with Megumi-chan’s surfing. super hard core surfer from Kagawa, Shikoku. very active and very adventurous!
it was a hot summer day with big smiles!
Megumi-chan in the green room.
the waves were absolutely perfect! i had a blast watching her surf so good!
where’s everybody?
then we went to eat the biggest piece of steak in the world! and can’t believe we finished it!
then needed some dessert to wash down the steak. shave ice and not the spam musubi. haha.
coffee and milk tea.
i had the milk tea. so good!
then we went straight to surf again. when i jumped off this wall onto my surfboard, i felt like throwing up! haha. i was totally amazed on Megumi-san’s appetite for food and surf. i don’t know how she does it. haha.
