Short and Long Life

292

everybody is happy to have Asayama-san back here in Hawaii. he’s made some friends through surfing which is amazing. and also amazing is the rainbow that came out this morning. it’s been over 2 weeks since i seen one!

at 68 years old, he’s probably the oldest surfer in the water, and also the happiest.

i’m sure Asayama-san missed the amazing surfing views.

then i thought it was time for him to go to a short board. i knew he could do it!

and the happy face after the first short board wave in Hawaii.

now i can say Asayama-san’s the oldest short boarder in Hawaii. that’s for sure!

and what’s amazing is the smile. this is pure surfers stoke! good job!

custom pizza and we were super content. thank you Asayama-san for the wonderful day! see you bright and early tomorrow!

and glad to see Seth Moniz win his heat today. going onto round 4 tomorrow. good luck kid!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide