after all the practice on the longboard, it was time for Asayama-san to enjoy the shortboard life. his paddling is strong, his balance is good, and his confidence level is high. so once he got on the shortboard, it was all GO! and he did superb!
reading the waves and catching it on his own. now surfing will only get better and better.
since the paddle out and in is super far, i still have Asayama-san paddle in and out the longboard. so on his last wave, i took his leash and told him not to fall. and of course, he fell. haha.
he started swimming in way too fast. at that pace, Asayama-san will run out of energy and that’s the main reason people drown. so i just yelled “slow down! keep your energy and keep calm!”
and that’s what he did. it’s a super far swim in and of course i could have helped him. but helping him would be like not helping him. i try to teach everybody how to keep calm and survive. so Asayama-san kept on swimming and swimming.
and kept on swimming and swimming.
then local boy Derek was kind enough to go get his board. this is the Aloha Spirit we have here in Hawaii. in some parts of the world, people only laugh at you.
Asayama-san got his board back, then paddled in. i told him “now you know how to survive. one day, you will break a board. one day, you will break your leash. all you have to do is keep calm and you will survive.” simple.
then we went to a cafe to eat a very healthy pastrami sandwich and tea.
awesome lunch food, talk, and laughs.
i could tell Asayama-san was still tired from surfing and the long swim. so instead of going free diving this afternoon, we went to play “Dirty Harry.”
America is full on flexing its muscles. we are trying to show the world that we are ready for anything. and with our new President, he won’t hold back. we bombed Syria last week, we bombed Afghanistan today, and nobody knows what’s next. when i seen this formation at Kadena Base in Okinawa, i thought to myself “OMG!” and what’s even more crazy is i’ve been seen so much more military activity here in Hawaii recently. more jets flying around, and big battle ships coming and going. we are getting ready for something pretty big.
so my take on this whole war thing is “we never know what tomorrow will bring. all we can do is sit back and enjoy each moment of each day. just keep on riding that perfect wave to where ever it takes us. so that’s what i’m doing.”
