another day, 20 more waves! Asayama-san getting really comfortable on the shortboard and in the water. making friends everyday, and making memories every wave. amazing vacation!
when you can wipe out and still smile, that means you’re enjoying the moment. i’m always keeping my eye on Asayama-san and making sure he’s enjoying the good and the bad.
today was the biggest day so far for this trip. now that we have a calm man, i’m thinking about taking him to north shore this week! we shall see how calm he really is. haha.
Asayama-san told me he couldn’t sleep last night. he woke up every 2 hours and was thinking about the good waves he caught yesterday. i bet you he went to sleep every time with this same smile on his face. that i know for sure because this is how fall asleep every night. haha.
we were starving today so it was Prime Rib time! we ate it all! and i was still so hungry after!
hot summer days with cool trade winds continue. you can’t beat this weather here in Hawaii.
glad to see Seth Moniz win another round at the Barbados Surf Pro. now he’s off to Round 5 with the big boys! Go-Seth!
back in 1995, i took an old, dirty, and dangerous ferry in Indonesia. i saw a 6 year old kid picking up cigarette butts and lighting it up with his lighter. i was watching in total shock! so seeing this photo online yesterday made me remember what happened 22 years ago. if this ever happened in Hawaii, both parents will go to jail for a long time. and the kid will get taken away by Child Protection Service. what a clash of cultures???
