photos from yesterday: welcome to my barreling world!
welcome to Asayama-san’s wonderful view.
nobody can believe this 68 year old is riding a 6’4 short board. neither can i.
it’s amazing how small this world is. i met this secret river mouth surfer at this super secret river mouth in Japan many years ago. now he’s retired and enjoying months at a time here in Hawaii. i was so happy to see him and i will swear to him and the boys i never told anybody about that secret river mouth after 25 years surfing there. and i never will.
want to thank Asayama-san for the custard pie! love it!
this is the coolest tent ever! wouldn’t it look super good on the back of Mayuki? i’ll look into it.
ever since the tragic tsunami/earthquake on 3/11, Kimura-san has been working tirelessly day in and day out. every time i visit him, he’s working very hard either on his boat, or at his factory. it’s over 6 years since and this man has never stopped. i respect this man very much.
and bringing home the freshest wakame from Kobuchihama all the way to Hawaii is a treat. and also seeing this amazing smile is a treat too. thank you Kimura-san for the wakame and the continued inspiration. We Are One!
