every body needs a rival. a rival will push you, will encourage you, and will make you a better surfer. Asayama-san’s rival is Chifumi-san. both want to get better and better, both want to get more confident and confident, and both want to surf their dreams and dreams. so on the way to the North shore yesterday, Asayama-san called up Chifumi-san and said “let’s go challenge ourselves.”
if you go left, you’re surfing Pipeline. if you go right, you’re surfing Backdoor. so Asayama-san surfed both! i couldn’t believe how confident he was out there.
after every wave, he paddled back straight to the peak where i was waiting. i don’t really think he knew where he was surfing??? haha.
and i’m glad he didn’t look down. if he did, he would have seen this. Chifumi-san saw this when she first paddled out so she was kind of scared. i guess anybody would be scared. haha.
of all the surfers out, Asayama-san caught the most waves. i think he rode about 7 waves. Chifumi-san caught less waves, but caught the best wave of the day. so between these rivals, i think they both won!
i don’t remember ever seeing a guy this age surfing at Pipe. i was so happy to see all the training pay off big time. it’s my ultimate dream to take any surfer to Pipeline for their first time.
walking down the infamous stairs at Pipeline is intimidating. but after catching good waves, the walk up feels like you’re a rock star!
want to congratulate Asayama-san and Chifumi-san for pushing each other to their limits. on the way there, it was almost silent. i could feel the nerves in the air. but on the way home, there was so much excitement and happiness. it’s amazing how surfing can change a persons mind.
another day gone by, and the smile is getting bigger and bigger. haha. Asayama-san is loving life right now, and he deserves to after accomplishing something so big.
the sunsets are counting down until Asayama-san will go back to Japan. we are all going to miss him very much.
and now that i found a new place to bbq, listen to music, surf, and enjoy life, i can’t wait to take my friends there. this summer is going to be so wonderful!
