Diamond Head was by far the best spot today so that’s where we surfed. i pulled up and ran into my old-time local friend John Shimooka. he’s living in Australia so i don’t get to see him as often. we use to train together everyday, surf together everyday, and get into lots of trouble everyday too. haha. so stoked to see see him. Friends Forever!
Asayama-san always wanted to surf Diamond Head and today was the day. overhead sets and perfect conditions. this was his first wave and it’s amazing he was so relaxed!
a few waves after, i seen this perfect set coming in and we were in the right take off spot. i yelled “GO!” and Asayama-san went! when i saw this photo, i was amazed! it was just yesterday i was explaining to him why surfers drag their hands in the wave, which is to stall for the barrel. and guess what? he did that today!!! my next goal is to get this man a big barrel!!! and i know he can do it!
we caught a few more waves and were totally satisfied. another day with a brand new challenge! a brand new challenge and a brand new man!
the smile continues… i’m having a blast with this wonderful man! Friends Forever!
