good morning. wow!! that’s all i have to say about last night. wow!! i’m surprised i woke up today. we had this big party, part welcoming friends and part celebrating our awesome trip. so it was double the pleasure. i took so much video but i can’t post it because your going to think we’re crazy. yeah, we are crazy. but you would just have to be there so see that we are still surfer kids in our adult bodies. after 4 cases of corona beer, 6 bottles of awamori, a bottle of jacksan, 30 shots of habushu(snake sake), fresh shirasu, awesome food, 100 hand shakes, 200 high fives, 300 hugs, and 5 hours straight of laughs, all i can say one thing, wish you were here….
i’ve been coming to okinawa for about 10 years and spent a lot of time here. the longest was a month straight. i’ve met the nicest people here in okinawa. i can feel the ALOHA SPIRIT everywhere i go. feel so welcomed and always taken care of. and i’m talking first class taken care of. i can’t thank everybody in one blog so i’m taking photos of every local here and i will explain later how kind each and every one is. if everybody in this world was from okinawa, there would be no war. only peace….
**for the past 5 days, i’ve been to 4 different airports 8 times. when you come to japan to chase typhoons, you have to be on it. ready to move on the dime, and also have supporting sponsors and friends that have deep pockets. it’s expensive, tiring, and sometimes frustrating lugging your bags and boards around. but when you hit the water and catch your first wave, it was all worth it….
this is typhoon 12. photo courtesy of surf1st. when the article in the mag comes out, your going to freak. this was my magic 6’0 that matchi shaped for me. it broke about 5 seconds after this photo was taken. how good were the waves? as shimpei said it last night, “i got 51 barrels in one day, and if you were to add up the total distance of how long the waves i surfed were, it would be at least 20 kilometers. the waves were going off!!” yeah, i agree. everybody is sunburned, arms and legs hurting, and totally surfed out.
**i’m sitting in my air conditioned hotel room right now at “THE BEACH” typing this and there is a mirror right in front of me. i looked at myself just now and seen the smile i had on my face for the past 4 days. it’s going ear to ear…. shit, i’m happy!!!
