yesterday, World Champion Women’s surfer Carissa Moore was out practicing at Bowls. so i told Asayama-san, “let’s go watch her surfing. let’s just sit on the side and watch her rip up the waves.” so we paddle out to Bowls and sit on the side watching carefully.
then i told Asayama-san, “ok, now it’s your turn. paddle for the next wave!” he looked at me “??????” he thought i was joking. look at his face. haha. but if i didn’t joke about surfing at Pipeline, why would i be joking now? i yelled “GO!” and by the looks at his face, he didn’t want to go. haha. but i yelled again and he went!
it was his first ever wave at Bowls! he rode it all the way in and paddled back out so happy!
then he was relaxed as i told him “this is nothing compared to the other day at Pipeline.” he agreed and the confident smile came back.
then Asayama-san caught more lefts at Bowls. he was so happy to surf this premier left point wave! after a few more, he was satisfied so we went back to the rights.
and caught more and more waves. Asayama-san was having so much fun that he forgot his flight was in a few hours. haha. he caught one more, and called it the most perfect surf trip of his life.
14 days of constant surfing along with diving, laughing, and other activities. i don’t know where Asayama-san gets all his energy from. we went in, then i dropped him off at the airport so he could get his flight back to Japan. he had the biggest smile on his face as we said our goodbyes. yeah, it was sad that he had to leave, but i know this energetic man will be back. and i’m looking forward to it! thank you again for all the wonderful memories Asayama-san!
