yesterday afternoon was onshore and big! very challenging to get out. Nanami-san must have swam under 20 waves in a row.
this is pretty freaky. freaky if you panic. cool if you don’t.
Nanami-san managed to get a few waves. each day is a learning process and once you overcome your fear, your life will be 10x better. just ask Asayama-san.
i took off on a big wave with my 11’0. it felt like i was going down a roller coaster! free Disneyland!
forgot to post a couple of days from my trip to Cuba. have some amazing photos and stories to share. will i go back there again? probably not. why? because it’s not illegal anymore. Cuba just lost its appeal to many American’s, including myself.
i still can’t believe how big this tako was! i better go check my secret tako hole again. i’m sure there is another big one in there right now.
