today was amazing! i picked up Mori-san this morning and the waves were super good. on the beach, he told me that he wanted to be coached. he said he hit a level where he can’t get any better. i took a look at Mori-san’s technique, made a couple major adjustments, and now he’s surfing like a pro. this was his first wave and i couldn’t believe how good he rode it!
Mori-san’s been surfing for 27 years and never got coached before. i’m so happy he found me because all it took was 2 adjustments and now his surfing is perfect! you should have seen him ripping on every wave he rode. we surfed Bowls for 3 hours.
if you’re a surfer and never been coached before, i recommend you getting a lesson or two from a coach. it will change your life forever.
i’m so excited for Mori-san’s surfing future.
then the three of us went to eat some pho. Miki-san and Mori-san is such a cool couple!
some Waiola Shave Ice to make our hot day cool.
then we got the bonus session. surfed Big Right’s and totally scored! only a couple guys out and super good waves! another 3 hour session! Mori-san caught 20 perfect waves and kept on ripping and ripping. such an awesome day! thank you Mori-san for the marathon surf day. and thank you Miki-san for waiting 6 hours on the beach for us. you are so kind!
as for me, i’m totally burnt. going to take a cold shower and sleep early. 6 hour surfing days continue…
OMG, i just watched the news and there is another Hepatitis A outbreak coming. some tuna imported from Indonesia used to make poke around the island was tainted with Hepatitis A. omg, you won’t know till 2 weeks later if you have it. these are the places that are tainted so look carefully on this list. if you ate there in the last 5 days, go get tested. i just ate poke yesterday and thank goodness it was fresh from Hawaii tuna.
