when we were checking out Big Right’s yesterday afternoon, it looked junky from the beach. i was almost thinking about going somewhere else. but then i saw my local friend paddling out so i knew it was going to be good.
Ronnie Yamada is as local as it gets at Big Right’s. skin head and tattoo’s covering 95% of his body, he can seem pretty intimidating. i would be scared if i didn’t know him. but we have a cool friendship going back over 30 years. Ronnie’s gotten the most barrels ever out there and i’m still trying to catch him up. thanks Ronnie for always sharing the waves with me and my friends.
imagine surfing for 27 years and can’t do an off the lip? can’t do a cutback? and can’t improve? Mori-san told me he was even thinking about quitting at one time because of the frustration. the simple solution was only a 20 minute conversation on the beach before we paddled out. and the results were huge! look at this beautiful wave Mori-san was on at Big Right’s!
it must feel so good coming off the bottom and setting up for the big off the top turn.
perfectly stylish carve.
if you surf perfectly like this, the big spray will follow! and this was only one of his 20 plus waves ridden.
hey Mori-san, i’m so happy you are a reborn surfer. thank you for being such a great listener and fast learner. when i told my local friend out there that you use to fall on every wave before today, he couldn’t believe it. he said you were one of the best Japanese guys to surf out at Big Right’s. i was so happy to hear that! keep on surfing and welcome to the new world of progressive surfing!
