Nightmare Fiesta!

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wow, another beautiful day! perfect waves, winds, and conditions this morning. super stoked to be in the ocean!

last day of boot camp for Nanami-san. all those days of hard work finally payed off! to be able to wait for a wave, time it, and catch it on your own, you have to be good. and Nanami-san is that good!

and when you can surf on your own, my job is done!

i’m so happy for you Nanami-san! you challenged yourself and did it! i’m sure you will be flying home with this big smile on your face. keep on surfing and live a happy life!

ok, i watched 13 episode in 4 days so that’s 13 hours on Netflix. now i know the reason why principals at every school are warning parents not to let their kids watch this. it’s pretty depressing and i actually had major nightmares these past 4 days. it’s probably the most heaviest and deepest drama i watched in my life. it’s about teenage suicide, rape, drugs, alcohol, fighting, and bullying. it’s troubling to watch, but at the same time, very educational for me. we live in a totally different world these days and these things actually happen in real teenage life. in fact, it was already happening back when i was in high school. if you’re a parent in America, i’m sure your kid already watched it. my advise is for you to watch it and discuss it with your child. i’m still traumatized, but to tell you the truth, but i’m glad i watched it because i know more than before that bullying is not a good thing. i’m going to sleep soon and and prepared to have a nightmare fiesta. waking up early and fixing my mental mind with some nice barrels. good night.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide