last night before i went to sleep, i made a choice. the choice was to surf this rare out of season North swell. yeah, i had to wake up at 4am, but i knew it would be worth it. anything is worth getting barreled.
and when i pulled up before 6am, it was indeed barreling. grabbed my shortboard and paddled out. only a hand full of surfers, most my friends. we had the best summer North shore session ever!
choices: in life, you must make choices. at Backdoor, you have to make choices. the first choice is just to paddle out on a very extreme low tide during the time of year it’s already very shallow. the next choice is to paddle into a wave and commit. you either go, or you don’t go. commitment will keep you safer, hesitation will get you hurt. and the last choice is to pull into the barrel, or not to pull in the barrel. if you go straight, you won’t get barreled. if you pull in, you will get barreled for sure, but highly possibly hit the reef if you don’t make it out. so this morning, i had made 4 choices. went straight to Backdoor, paddled out, took off, and pulled in. i hit the reef 2x, drank some water, got barreled, and am loving life. thank you Mother Nature for sending us the best summer gift!
then i saw this sticker on the sign near the beach:
If you don’t like Hawaiians
WHY THE F**K
DID YOU MOVE HERE!
haha. that’s so cool!
