will never forget my Backdoor session yesterday morning. to get a nice solid day like this in May is unheard of. luckily the swell direction was right, the winds were right, the weather was right, the tide was right, and my board was right. this is just one of many waves i had that morning. super stoked to be surfing winter surf in the summer!
and the drive home always the same, very happy!
had a great time with Mai-chan this afternoon. two years ago she was telling me her dream about going to school and living in Hawaii. now, that dream came true! she’s here for school, and of course surf!
boot camp continues… stay tuned for more of Mai-chan because she is here to stay!
and yes, the waves couldn’t have been any better for us this afternoon. it was like a typical super good summer day! lots of waves, and lots of rides.
so happy you’re living in your dream Mai-chan! study hard in school and lets surf harder!
