was so stoked to surf with Kawasaki-san again this morning. a solid 3.5 hour session. it’s his first time to Hawaii, and it’s his first time surfing so good! Kawasaki-san has 10 years experience but yesterday was the real beginning. the real beginning of his new surfing life!
i just kept laughing watching him catch wave after wave. he even caught a super nice set at Bowls and rode the left all the way to the end. it was the best wave of his life!
Kawasaki-san paddled back out and was shaking. his body full of chicken skin! he was so stoked that all the emotions took over from inside out. i’m so glad he got to feel the “pure stoke” i always talk about. nothing beats that feeling!
to all my students “this is exactly where you want to be when you throw your board and dive under the wave. not too deep, not to shallow. if you dive under like this, you will pop up the back with lots of air left. but remember to keep calm!
when we were paddling in, Kawasaki-san told me “it’s just like heaven!”
welcome to heaven! keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
it’s always nice to come home to the cutest kid in the world. nice haircut Mateus!
